Storm Recovery · Water Damage
Drying Out Your Home After Storm Damage
Mold starts in 24–48 hours. This is the exact drying protocol to stop it before it costs you thousands.
Mold starts in 24–48 hours. This is the exact drying protocol to stop it before it costs you thousands.
A tarp stops new water from coming in. But the water already inside is now your most dangerous problem — and the mold clock starts immediately. In Gulf and Atlantic coastal climates, mold colonization begins within 24–48 hours. Here's exactly what to do, with or without power.
A tarp stops new water from coming in. But the water that already entered is now your most dangerous problem — and it doesn't wait. In the Gulf and Atlantic coastal climate, mold colonization begins within 24 to 48 hours of water intrusion. Once mold is established in walls, insulation, and structural framing, you are no longer dealing with a roof repair — you are dealing with a potential uninhabitable structure and a remediation bill that can exceed the cost of a new roof.
REMOVE IMMEDIATELY
LEAVE AND DRY IN PLACE
A roofing contractor handles the roof. A water mitigation company handles what the water did inside your home — and they are different services. If you have any of the following, call a licensed water damage mitigation company (not just a roofer) within 24 hours:
Water mitigation companies use industrial-grade drying equipment — commercial dehumidifiers, air movers, and moisture monitoring systems — that are not available at hardware stores. Most homeowner policies cover water mitigation as part of the storm damage claim. Call your insurer when you call the mitigation company — get both processes started simultaneously.
The most insidious post-storm moisture damage is invisible. Water wicks laterally through insulation, tracks down wall cavities, and saturates structural framing without any visible surface sign. By the time you see a stain, the damage has been progressing for days.
OSB absorbs water and swells significantly. Moisture meter above 19% indicates saturation requiring drying. Above 25% may need replacement. Swelling at seams and soft spots underfoot are physical signs.
Fiberglass batt insulation is essentially non-dryable in place. Once saturated it becomes a persistent mold substrate. The drywall must be cut out and insulation removed — drying in place does not work.
Dimensional lumber can recover IF dried below 19% moisture before mold colonizes. Fan-assisted drying works for framing not yet at the mold threshold. Check with a moisture meter daily. Soft spots or dark staining indicate mold present.
A pin-type moisture meter available at any hardware store for $15–$25 is the most important tool for assessing whether your drying efforts are working. Target: wood framing and subfloor below 19%, drywall below 1%. Take readings daily in all affected areas — rising readings mean hidden water sources or inadequate drying. Document your readings with photos as part of your insurance claim.
Commercial dehumidifiers moving hundreds of pints per day, high-velocity air movers, thermal imaging to find moisture behind walls, moisture meters to track drying progress. Most homeowner policies cover water mitigation as part of the storm claim. Call your insurer when you call the mitigation company — get both started simultaneously.
Verify IICRC certification at iicrc.org
One request. Up to 3 free estimates from licensed local contractors. Takes under a minute.
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